Discover Piemonte with Nina Cerullo

Okay good evening and welcome to the Next in our series of webinars my name Is Julia I’m from the WCT school undern and I’m Just going to do a brief introduction And before I pass you over to Nina’s so I think many of you have been to these Webinars already we’ve been running a Number of them while we’re in lockdown In place of the normal vents that we Would be running at WCG school but one Thing this has allowed us to do is reach A much wider audience so welcome from Wherever in the world you happen to be And so tonight obviously we’re looking At p.m. on tape Nina is one of the educators that we Work with on our events at WCTC School London she does both the burgundy and The Italian series if you’ve ever had to Be good fortune to get to one of those And you know it’s a good tasting good Night out and it’s not she’s going to Share with us all of her piemonte a Knowledge for now and if I can ask you To keep the questions to the end we’ll Have a bit of time to go through those Afterwards it would just mean that she Can get through all the information but What I’ll do is polish you up – heard You can introduce yourself / – thank you Thank you thank you thank you Julia Welcome everybody my name is obviously Me naturally so on the screen hello – I

Know some people know me so hello nice You to join us and first of all just got To apologize for the burgundy max I’ve Already been told off by somebody but Having burgundy maps with me they’re too Heavy to take off my wall but I have got The bad berries collapse next to me and They’re on the screen as well so don’t Worry they will be coming up and yes I Do some of the I do the Italian series Of the head office WACC and the Chianti Tasting is one of those and a lot of People know me also for burgundy but I Also won’t be called a van de Bordeaux So live everywhere really The Italian connection is actually my Husband I married an Italian and for Those of you who know Italians and you Know that they are very passionate People so you kind of don’t have much Choice you get thrown into The culture and the food and the wine And my husband’s family are from Campania which is obviously the Southwest of Italy but in the last of Three or four generations they have all Dispersed around the whole of Italy Which has given me over the years a lot Of opportunity to travel and get to know Various places he has a cousin who lives Just in – in Torino and we’ve been there Many many times and I have to be honest Out of all the cousins out of all the Relatives that live all around Italy

Because they are genuinely everywhere The Donnie needs to be a few Monday’s of The people of this region I would say Are perhaps the proudest of the Italians They really are quite um we are the best Sorry if you’re c’mon Daisy and I don’t Need and find you but they do very Definitely have that sort of that Opinion of where they are their place Their towns this it is there wine their Food it’s the best in fact I remember This was years and years ago and by the Way don’t ever do this are we invited to Dinner and to owners of a restaurant Which was not far from where I live Which at the time was in the top 100 Restaurants in the UK we invited the Owners for dinner because we got to know Them quite well that was big mistake in Itself the pressure was extraordinary And they were both from Piemonte and I Very foolishly thought that because they Drank in one day’s our wine pretty much All the time They would like to have something Different so I gave them I think we Started off with some french bubbles and Then I moved on to California and we had Some California Cabernet Sufjan it was As if i just kind of slapped him in the Face they could believe that I would do That why would I not give them to Monzer Wine so that kind of gives you a taste Of I think a lot of the culture of you

Monty now when whenever I do these Sessions up in London a lot of people Always say to me the worst thing about Your sessions Nina is that we leave them Absolutely starving because I do temper Food quite a lot and I think if your You’re studying Italian wine food is Almost as important if not more so Because unless you understand the Culture and the food of the region it it Makes the wines make sense because They’re so different whether you’re in The Northwest northeast middle south Wherever you are in Italy the foods are So different and the wines are so Different the grape varieties are so Different and it’s why I think a lot of Students especially really struggle with Italy because there are so many Different grapes and if you understand The culture and the food it does really Help you to understand the wines so I Mean for example and we’re in pure Monday and if I go back down to Campagna Where my husband’s family from we would Be eating a piece of fresh fish with Some very some vegetables with some Olive oil tomato garlic and maybe some Mozzarella but everything very fresh in Light a pimp you want it we are eating Pasta with ragout of wild boar truffle Mushrooms steak lamb you would never see Those down in Campania and so when you Look at the wines and you taste the

Wines they all make sense because you Couldn’t put a Barolo with a meal in Companion it wouldn’t work it would Destroy the food and likewise some of The whites from from Campania would not Work with the highly flavored foods that You find in commodities so it’s like a Getting to know the food is almost as Important so when we talk about the Wines as this session goes on try and Bear in mind what you would eat with it And I hope those of you that are Actually tasting are going to be eating Something with them because especially Is but almost embarrassed because They’re pretty tough to actually drink On their own they I always say they need They need food with them some of the Whites you could drink on their own but The Reds can be difficult right anyway So I’ve talked enough about me that’s Enough let’s move on so they’re coming Up next slide please Jr so just a bit of Geography because I’m sure most of you Know if you want it is but just in case You don’t you can see it up there The South West Southwest that somewhere Else right up in the northwest of the Country and you can see that in that big Purple pink part it borders it has France to its west and switched limbs to Its North now the key factors really as To where it is which has a massive Impact on the climate there in German do

Is where it’s six within those mountains And if you have a look at that map you Can see that it’s bordered to the north By the Alps by to the west by the Alps And and also to the south so to the South of it you have the tip of the Apennine mountains which of those Mountains which run all the way up Through the center of Italy right from The very boat of Italy right up through The center and then they finish off in That little piece in Liguria right at The top just below c’mon do that means That piojo is protected from three sides And quite dramatically protected so the Only way that anything can really get Through is from the east and if you look You can see that really broad valley That’s the Po Valley the Po River which Runs right from the French Alps right Through to the Adriatic Sea so that is Where everything if anything comes from So just the fact that gives you an Indication of what we’re going to expect From the climate implemented because it Has that protection so you’ve got Virtually no wings coming down from the North because you’re protected by the High Alps you’re protected from the Winds from the West by those there by The French arms and then you’re also Protected from the Mediterranean so very Little influence from Mediterranean also From the south so it is from the east

That you get influences the climatic Influences and just in that map on the Left side of the screen you can see There the principal areas of production So you’ve got Barbara of Asti Barbara Iske baare all or asked the Alba that’s Rare in there they are the languor hills There’s also a lot of production further East and further north into the Foothills of the Alps which are really Quite important as well small production Zones but still really Very important okay move on please Julia So climate so that’s this is a really Important factor in chianti wine almost More than any other part of Italy Because it has a really strong effect on Our not just wine but on the grapes in Particular you know how he’s saying Before that weight your food and the Culture is very important these things Haven’t just happened you know recently We are talking centuries of trial and Error trying grapes out they don’t work Grapes have mutated to fit the climate To fit the temperatures people have Chosen to plant certain grapes because They prefer them with their food etc Those this is no accident so the grapes That are grown here really fits very Nicely in with the climate that we have Here and in fact Nebbiolo for example Which is perhaps the principal we call The principal grape it’s not the most

Grown rate but it’s the principal one it Doesn’t grow particularly well in many Other parts of the world it’s been Trialed elsewhere but it really helps to Have exactly what is here to make it at Its best so like I was saying the Alps Create that natural barrier from the North and the west and they also create A rain shadow so the summers in if you Want a really quite dry to the south it Will be protected from the Mediterranean So there’s very little Mediterranean Influence if you consider that we are on The same latitude as Bordeaux and yet Gordo can be really quite wet and the Winters in water are really quite warm And yet here in Covanta because of that Protection from all sides it can get Really very cold in the summer because We are continental climbing here because We have this protection in the daytime Yeah it can get really hot but at night Especially at altitude at some of those Vineyards where we have gone bad Mariska It can get really very cold even during The summer so the continental climate is A big important factor for ripening the Grapes we’ll talk about it more later But nebula for example is is one of the Longest ripening grapes it’s one of the Earliest gods Riot is a concern and it’s one of the Last to ripen so you have to have a Season a very long hot sunny days for

That to happen there is one other factor Though which does prepare put a spanner In the works and that is the fog so you Remember the map where you had the Po Valley coming in all the way from the Adriatic basically the winds and the Moisture come in that way they come in From the Adriatic and they pick up more Moisture with the Po Valley and they Reach you want it and they stop because There’s nowhere for them to go so they Stay there sitting over the vineyards Now that is an important factor because Over centuries the grapes that grow here Have to be able to ripen either before The Fox come in and it tends to be early Autumn that they start to arrive late Summer early autumn but they also have To be able to continue ripening with Those great with that fog there and that Is why it is so important that we have Great writers that can actually do that And of course we’ll talk about it more Later but nebula the great nebula the Name Nebbia so this is a great which Will happily ripen with the fog okay so It needs to they need to be tough grapes And the thick skin of the Nebbiolo grape Allows it to put up with the fog the Disease that the four might bring and Still allow it to ripen which but it’s One of the things that gives the Character but all alone Barbaresco okay I’m Julia please if you leave on things

Okay so talking of grape varieties so is Anybody out there drinking a Moscato Gatsby well with while I’m talking I was really hoping somebody would be This is a Moscow to Bianca for those of You who have never had in me or who just Look at you give to your teenage Children and or to your children trust Me okay when I do these sessions Normally one of the best things about These sessions is that we get to taste Some pretty stunning wines and one of The one of the lovely things about doing These Italian series for the WCT is that They give me see much free rein to taste Whatever I choose and then they price The sessions accordingly and so we do Have some really quite nice wines a Couple of years ago I included in the Tasting and asked his warranty and I was Amazed that within in the room I think They were 24 people not a single person In that room had ever tasted Monte so this is your homework okay Because you can’t actually taste all These wines but I’m going to give you a Couple of pieces of home I do give Really good homework okay so your Homework is to go and purchase at some Point right now a bottle of Asti Spumante Almost got nasty and taste them because They are such a treat They are really beautiful beautiful

Wines and hugely undervalued I don’t Know why we don’t drink more we don’t Think wasn’t because they’re not Fashionable I think although it is still The highest selling sparkling wine in Italy so and most of it is exported so I’m not sure where it all goes but so These are Asti Spumante if they’re there Gently sparkling they’re not sort of Really ultra fizzy and Muscat vastly is Even more gently sparkling so don’t Expect sort of fizz bond that beautiful Sort of on an evening like tonight They’re really warm and sunny glass of Asti Spumante this gently gently sweet They’re not sticky sweet and they have This lovely freshness to them and this Sparkling also if you’ve got a fruit Salad or something for after dinner they Go really well with a light dessert or a Sort of a Pandora so the like like cake And a glass of our system and it’s just Divine so homework you’ve got to go and Try some Okay moving on to court easily hey I Have to be a little bit careful because This is being recorded but I’m not a Huge fan I have to be honest good is it Gabby as you can see I fit and Relatively neutral in character and yeah I was too wondered why it was so Successful and I think there are a Couple of reasons A the name gabby is a very easy name to

Remember and a lot of Italian wines are Not easy to remember and I once spoke to A sommelier and asked him why is it so Popular and he said because it tasted Nothing and actually some wines which Have very little flavor because they Won’t offend in any way do very well a Little bit like Pinot Grigio from the Plains you know they are very successful Because they there’s nothing about them Which offends in particular so Gavin They’ll already galbi so this is another Step up in quality so the canoes are Great but grown in the community Gary This is the classical region so that’s This steepest slope sitting around the Old town they are quite different so They’re much ripe for grapes and they Make a ripe fuller wine with more flavor Okay so if you’re going to drink Gavi Then drink a B Gary it’s usually only One or two pounds more a bottle and the Difference is huge Okay so okay I’ve been nasty to it so I Apologize to William Garvey producers But for me at the moment The next grape is the one that’s really Interesting so this is your second piece Of homework if you haven’t tasted bad Mace this is a this is a wine that you Really need to try because it’s such a Low it does everything it’s such a Lovely wine has lovely frame lovely Flavors it’s really fresh it has great

Acidity great with food but it’s also Lovely to drink on its own because it Does have a lot of flavor and it has This lovely zest you finished it I just Think it’s an absolute delight and for Me it is the what white wine off you Monty at the moment I think this is the One that we should be really focusing on As you can see I have kind of done that So that’s your homework to go and drink If somebody’s just written something Just well Well done I like that yes good choice Good choice and the other great tonight Is Sarita the grape at the bottom Segment you know I’m a big fan of lemon Tea and I love it from wherever it seems To come from whether it’s southwest France South East France South West France whether it’s Sardinia or whether It’s Tuscan cows I just really like it And this is no exception actually I Really like Favorita in Jordan Unfortunately I don’t haven’t seen much Of it yet for sale in the UK I don’t Know whether how well it does in other Countries around the world but keep your Eyes open for it because I think with The way we drink wine these days and the Foods that we tend to eat some modern Style of eating I think they’re men Teenagers it goes really well we think It goes really well with Asian food nice Little spice and character and it’s

Quite exotic so it goes very well with Asian food but it’s also lovely with Fish and well pretty much anything like Just really enjoy it’s a really Enjoyable line and please move on please Thank you right so red varieties Obviously nebula is the one that people Think of when they think of you Monty But we mustn’t forget the others because They are extremely important in space More so now than I think they used to be But bear that is the most planted grape In few Monty it used to be when I said Used to be quite a while ago but I’m Still is in some place a bit of a Workhorse great so it’s great that’s Grown for making if I dare use the word Plonk However in in more recent years I’d say In the last 10 15 20 years there’s been A real movement to producing Barbera of Real quality and actually with modern Winemaking with management in the Vineyard and I hate to say it because it Isn’t good for everybody but global Warming Barbera has actually started and Does produce some really super duper Super wines ranging right from easy Drinking in fact I’ve got one downstairs Actually on but it’s not it’s something That I Have food so I didn’t open it but some Really easy drinking by Bastille about a Bit of Alba right through to sort of

Really super high quality wines where The vines have been really stressed Green harvesting oak fermentation Maturation just really seriously go to The point where they can very easily Sort of go up against top Barolo and Barbaresco so I really can’t stress Enough how good some bad banners can Actually be one of the problems it’s Always had as a grape variety has been Its acidity levels so it’s not it’s not A particularly tannic great and in fact Historically it was often blended with Nebula because because nebula has such High tannins one of the ways they would Actually bring some of the tannins down In some of the nebula wines in Piemonte It was to add some Barbera because they The tannins were so low so it just Balance it out and in fact there have Been over the years several but all the Producers which have tried to get sort Of 10% of the blending barrel large to Be an addition of another great like Barbera or don’t check all company soon Or something to actually try and balance The nebula it has been denied every time But but better now is a seriously good Wine and I don’t want to give you too Much homework but one of the nice things About Barbera better now but by the Velocity is even they’re really sort of Lower in price wines I seriously good Now it’s actually really quite hard to

Turn up at a restaurant in anywhere in Come on do sit down and have a bottle of A really basic bottle of Barbera I need not be good because of what we Can do in the vineyard and what we can Do in the winery so so please don’t Dismiss it and think it’s got to be Nebula because you may need seriously Very very happily surprised if you try Some of them are burners and because Nebula tends to be at the moment and Prices aren’t growing on it it’s leaving That very behind a little bit so it’s Actually nice way to taste wines of the Region without breaking the bank So check up The little sweet one so as anybody had Don’t check though it’s one of those Things I’m alright I’m not to drink it When I’m here in the UK unless I’m doing Tastings But when I’m in your dick especially in Carina we drink later don’t you if you Go to a restaurant and you sit down and They bring a carafe of wine that’s what It is you know if you don’t ask well Just have a carafe of your house read Chances are it’ll be a blonde chick Because it’s very easy to drink it has Lois Lee did you say you don’t need to Be eating something you know really oily We think you can actually just sit down And drink a glass of red wine the grape Is actually so the grapes oh she’s so

Sweet they’re a lot of legit dog grapes Are actually eating as table grapes Because they because they are so sweet And flavors them so if you can imagine That put into a wine you can imagine That they can be really soft light Fruity easy drinking wines there are a Couple of exceptions you can see it There on the screen Don’t you little Johnny is now a DOCG And they do take the whole thing much More seriously and they can sometimes be A little bit almost new world in style Is opposed really quite big and bold and New world II and I almost knock you on Daisy a little bit I think that’s the Only not criticism but maybe a little Bit of a judgment I think they can be They go out of their character a little Bit but they are they’re lovely sort of Your enjoyable wines go check down so if You haven’t had one because they’ve been There nice one another the bottom Bracket that’s bracket of Fraser and Green Yelina Three traditional grapes which we are Seeing less and less of now because if You’ve got a vineyard and you can sell a Nebula Lord Alba they’re 15 euros a Bottle why would you keep your phrase Though it’s you can only sell six so There has been a lot of pulling up of Traditional varieties and replanting Remember Allah which it is a shame but

Bracket to that Queen if you haven’t had One is interesting because it’s slightly Sweet and it’s sparkling so it’s Something that you often find again in Too Around in G Monty can move on please do There Okay so nebulous this is the one that Most people are probably most interested In and several of you are actually Drinking as we speak and and as I Mentioned at the beginning nebula Meaning fog is where the great name Comes from whether it comes from the Fact that it can actually put up with Growing in fog or whether it some people Say it comes from that bloom that is Actually you can see it there on the on The picture the bloom that’s actually on The great is they call it an anemia so Whether or not they call it nebula Because of the bloom or whether because Actually will quite happily write them Slowly with with foggy conditions who Knows but yes it can one of the reasons For this is this extremely thick skin Now obviously having a very sick skin Brings complications because thick skins Mean height onions high acidity and high Tannins and of course high tannins mean For you to be able to drink these wines You need to age them now I don’t want to Sort of dismiss that completely but Things have changed so if we were

Drinking a nebula from thirty years ago Wherever you were with implement it it Would be a very different wine to how it Is today global warming has had a big Impact on the vineyards of You Monty so We used to pick going back 20 to 30 Years we used to pick a nebula in Camonte it’s probably late October Through into November and sometimes Towards the middle of November now by Then the folks will well and truly set In and they were settled so you we would Often pick nebula under right now the Problem without of course is you have a Thick skin and unripe tannins so to get The flavor from those grapes because They were under ripe you would have to Use a lot of extraction now during the Making of the wine with a lot of Extraction all those tannins and that Acidity you would need years for that Wine to actually for the Tonys to soften And for everything to to work together Unfortunately by the That happened austin the flavor have Disappeared so there’s a reason why Nebula has become more fashionable I Think in more recent years is because Actually global warming has allowed the Great to blossom and not just in Barolo And Barbaresco but in the other areas Around in the languor in rural up in Gaming gettin a know that they are Almost always now picked right and

Almost always in October if not early October and sometimes late September in The riper spots so they are picked when The skins are still thick but if you are Picking a great which has got thick Skins if the tannins in there are right When you pick them you don’t need a lot Of extraction in the winery so you so You can have gentle laceration so you Don’t end up with a wine with really High tannin so in fact you don’t need to Age them for so long before you get to Drink them so it’s like a plus plus plus And it has it has really helped nebula Suddenly it’s not helped everything but It has helped nebula and there have been Some years when it worked against them For example they’ve seen a an increase In hail in come on to because of global Warming and that can be disastrous and An increase in sort of extreme rainfall Which in something like 2002 when it Pretty much washed away so there have Been some disastrous years but in General it has been it’s been good for The great it’s been good for us nebula Lovers so one of the other things that They’re doing to help it ripen earlier Other than the fact that climate has Helped that is a lot of green harvesting And Deeley things they’re exposing the Grape to the Sun earlier now you can do That more in the in the Sun a steeper Slopes because you’ll get more Sun

Obviously if you want a steeper slope so But having said that the low-lying areas Which used to be considered not really Suitable for nebula because the fog Would come in and they wouldn’t ripen They would have been planted with Barbera Check – which ripen earlier they can now Be planted with no biana so which is why I think a few of you I saw you were Drinking nebula DeLonghi etc now they DeLonghi the lower languages now the Nebula almost always ripens so don’t Feel that if you like the great you have To buy butter on barbaresco I would Almost say they are getting so expensive Now the point where it’s kind of God you Know and why not why would you but it’s Worth trying the other nebula areas and Also one thing at the end of this Presentation there is a a vintage chart So you can see which of the which have Been the better vintages for for better And Barbaresco but those hot pots of Integers are often they are the vintages – by the Navy on us from these outer Line somebody talking to their children They can join it okay so we’ve got thick Skins high tannins and a high acidity And and a high alcohol and it’s getting Higher of course because we are picking Our grapes right but then we used to and Even despite what I just said they do Benefit from a bit of age even those

Which are growing on the lower lying Areas which are softer or something like A Gatton area or give me carry my those Wines although they tend to be lighter And a little bit more elegant than the Bigger wines of barrel and memories they Still benefit from a little from aging And one of the reasons is the perfume That comes into nebula wines after some Age so when they are when they’re young They have much more primary fruit and They have they have a little bit of Spice that’s all taken up by the tannins So it’s quite difficult to get over that A lot of producers will use new oak to Try and help soften the wines early but Of course new oak will cover up the Aromatics of the nebula grape so again It still helps if you can give it a Little bit of time I noticed that Somebody was drinking in 2015 And Roxy ABBA I’m sure that’s delicious But if you could’ve left it for three Four five more years I think you would Have benefited you would have tasted More of the aromas rather than sort of Just the structure and although I’d be Quite interested to hear your tasting Notes at the end of that those of you That are drinking that okay Julia sorry Thinking so yes bad beliefs go now Before I can start talking about it I Just wants to make a point yes I’ve got The burgundy maps behind me so sorry

Again but okay Obviously I can’t just stick it in front Of the screen so if you aren’t Interested in really getting to know the Crew of Barolo and Barbaresco you can Get those maps and print them off quite Legitimately you’re allowed to do that From the consortium for Berlin Barbara Iske and I think it might actually be I Think the address is actually on the Next page so and Julie we’re just moving Forward a sec so yeah button that’s the Langley mean you got it so you could go To the consortium and print off those Maps so you can print them on I’m sure You can pick them off as big as you like If you really want to get to know the Crew system of Barolo and Barbaresco can You go back to you studio thank you so Um obviously bad runners got hundreds at Nebula and like I said along with that Although there have been some producers Over the years that would like that Changed so that they could allow to put In a little bit of something else just To help them out because nebula can be Tricky but it keeps being denied Jackie Is a good thing because one of the Things that we have seen more recently Is this the growing of the crew system So you so rather than just drinking Barbara iske you’re actually drinking About a minister from a single vineyard And they are being recognized more and

More and of course if we start adding Different grape varieties then you will Not be able to feel the differences Between one site and another that’s one Of the lovely You’ve already got the the differences Of winemaking so adding another grape I Think I think personally would be a Mistake but I know that there are Several winemakers who disagree with me And so Mariska has to be aged in 26 Months in and nine of those have to be In wood for years for lose over the Soils here in bad Mariska catonian Calderas clay some people call it Cal Clary small the key factor here is that They are very similar soils that those That are found in Barolo and Lamora now When we go to the barrel or map it is Divided into several areas and two of Those areas Barolo Lamora Have the same kind of soils that we find Here in Bavaria now that the point about That which the important point is that Those soils help with maturity of the Grape so the wines that come from the Tritonian calcareous miles and clays are Softer when they when they are mature so When the wines are aren’t they mature Early I’m sorry so Bank – God does Mature it is earlier drinking than back Then Barolo in general okay not every Single one but in general it is a Generalization they are earlier drinking

Than most of the wines from Barolo but There are some exceptions to that Because we have got some sites in Barbaresco which are now considered to Be as good finer some of the best sites For winemaking anywhere in the world so Don’t assume that it’s just it’s it’s Kind of play second fiddle to better Although because I think it used to but It no longer does I think in general we Think in the trade with a very much kind Of an appreciation for the work that They have done in Berlin but it’s got to Bring it up to the same level and Reputation that you’d find in Molalla And Angela Gaia there’s a note on on him There on the screen Absolutely he is God as far in as far as God is concerned and I don’t know if Anybody who’s listening in has been to The Italian icons tasting Berman’s the street but that’s a really Good tasting I get to taste all I get I Get to choose the wines and guys in Their Caza so they are both icons so I Mean he really is quite iconic he has Changed the face of America pretty much Single-handedly and that he he made Everybody look at it in a completely Different way interestingly Gaia is one Of those producers that he his bad Mariscos are often not bad Morris not Because he adds the great varieties into Them so they often have other names and

They just langauge doc because he adds a Bit of this and a bit of that into them But they’re still absolutely delicious It does have to forgive him for that Just looking at the the flavors and you Get in the aromas that you get him there They are very very similar to those that You find in in but I think the Difference is often the structures that You find in some but all the wines there Are a very few bad berries the ones that Have the power and the structure that You find in some of the butter on the Line so that really is the main the main Difference but don’t dismiss them at all They they’re just delicious for somebody Drinking some okay so I’ll read all Those later Okay I’m gonna move on please jr. so Just having a look so for those of you Who really want to get to know the crew Of bad berries you can’t pick up these Maps and you can you can read all about Them on the consortium website and this Was just because because we have now Started to sell Barolo and Barbaresco A single vineyard wines it always used To be a case that you would have Producers would just produce their Barbaresco they might have a bad Barrister with a name but in general in General most producers used to take Grapes on watering yards and another Blending together to make the best of

What they could with modern winemaking Now and with vineyard management we Recognise that we can do things Differently and we can treat our vines Differently depending on the soils and The site in the situation and so there Is now much more focus on single Vineyard wines in To the point where relatively recently They decided to name each of the sites Within the Barolo and Barbaresco zones So they all know why they call them crew For those of you who are interested in Italy they’re not like we want them to Call the crew we wish they would just God and crew because it’s really easy to Say and in fact that’s what everybody Actually says but on on the on the Website you will see it says men sooner Which means crew geographica adjunct eva There you go I mean ok I’m sorry I’m Barbara iske but That really is a mouthful and crew would Work really well but we’ll see it just Makes it a little bit different so mega It can kind of make it into a Messier Geographic agent diva Sort of shortens to mega but people Still tend to refer him to his crew and You’ll find that there’s a lot of talk About whether or not we should start Giving these crew classifications so Because some of them are clearly better Than others so just like we have in

Burgundy whether or not we should start Giving some of the crew a grand cru Status or Grandda crew I don’t know here In Berlin Barbara iske just for those of You are really interested be I’ve put Those there on the screen which just Indicates some of the best sites but on The map Julie if you could just run it To run the mouse down from second Dini Which is kind of in the middle there and It goes down in the south east line and That kind of little yes–what down there And slightly south that tends to be the Area where we find the best men’s Joining in but in barbaresco so it’s not And it’s not exact because there’s some Others dotted around but if you really Want to get to know them then you can Pick up these maps okay could you move On clean studio Thanks Barolo don’t you All just love a glass about Allah a bit I bet I might be wrong I might be wrong But I suspect that not many of you drink Barolo very regularly it has really gone Quite mad as far as price is concerned And I’m the single vineyards have pushed the Prices even higher having said that I Can’t blame them it’s actually really Nice that they are being taken seriously Because nebula is a it’s a tricky grape To grow and it’s a tricky great to make Good wine from so the effort that goes Into making them you kind of think the

Cakes worth it and it ends if you have Been lucky enough to taste some of the Top Barolo and Barbaresco especially With some aged it all makes sense you Understand why they are so expensive and If you compare some of the top barrel as I think I’m just looking at the one that We the last bottle that we posted last Year for this for this particular Session in London was Roberta where’s Yours And burano cheddar quail from 2007 it Was 265 pounds but I’m it was my tasting Notes I can just read I could just read You the tasting notes okay this is so it Was a it was a only a ten eleven year Old mine so really quite young actually But but on Law Clinic where is one of Those you can’t drink a little bit Earlier but my tasting note therefore This was a scent of sweet red fruit White flowers scented roses dried roses Rich and powerful on the palate Seductive I don’t know where I got that From but I put seductive creamy and Broad quite dark and brooding so I mean They just had so much of leather spiced Licorice Tom Insel and sort of like Squished cherries you know you write Your own tasting notes and they always Sound a little bit weird and but just I Reckon I could have written more and Laura more it’s just one of those wines Which had just developed into something

Quite quite beautiful and wonder if That’s what you’re paying for is that Complexity that comes with aging about a Lot about Minister long the complexities Are just they they really do pay off and I would love to try that wine in another Five years time Julia I was rather hoping that maybe they Bought that wst bought a case of it and We could try it again every two three Years you know no moral no obviously Again hundreds at nebula one of the Reasons why Barolo has more structure is Because the vineyards are the especially The top vineyards are higher and cooler Than those that we find in my Marissa so The burglars from vineyards are warmer In general so the great ripens a little Bit earlier which is why historically They have been easier to drink earlier Because we haven’t ride the grape and of Course historically a lot about a lot Had to be left for such a long time to Soften those turnings but because as you Now know that’s not necessarily the case So much anymore they still need the time But not like they used to Now can we just move on a slide I would Come back to this one but I just wanted To show I like this this map that’s here On the left because it just gives you an Idea those of you who are not really Sort of key about what how things are in Verona because now that everything is no

Longer just put into one bottle but Alma Which is how it used to be now things Are being separated and you started to Notice on labels things like la madre But all around it helps to understand a Little bit what they mean so if you are Lucky enough to be able to find that on A relatively regularly or if you’ve got Some in your cellar or and your stairs Or have you understanding the difference Between those regions can be really Useful and when I seen useful I mean Really so we’re talking five 10 20 years Difference useful so what you can see There it’s just divided and this is Pretty simple but it is a lot more Complicated this in real life but that’s Just a simplified version of the Difference of the soils that we have in The barrel living house and you can see That Lamora and berola are principally This blue white tottenham clay okay and On the other side yes we still have them Saturnian calcareous clay but you also Have some Sandstone and some limestone and some Other soils which make the wines very Different so the key here when I was Learning about that a lot I had this little method of remembering Which was which what which one was going To mature before the other and it was my Simple sarin longer which is the bat Area to the right I remember

Looma meaning long because that’s what It means You need to age those for a long time They are the longest okay drinking Sterile unger butter a lot before it’s Ten years old is you’re just missing out So honestly 10 15 20 for the top crew 30 Years for a cent so no longer but almost 1/4 day for But demeaning strong again these wines Need time to soften okay and on the Other side we’ve got very long those are Those words are just soft and lovely LaMotta we’re all know so they are wines That you can actually drink earlier Because they come out from the very Beginning they come out soft more Feminine I know I’m not supposed to say That because you can get some very Feminine men so it just you know they Are softer and more gentle right from The very beginning and the middle you’ve Got Castillo nefeli there’s a lot of Wine so the three main production areas Are more about on caste Leona filleted On gasoline for legend you can see has a Mix of both so you They often they’re one of the most Balanced areas for the role of Production and you’ll often find that Producers will blend a little bit of one Side of the area with some grapes from The other side of the area to make a Much more balanced wine but I is just a

Generalization but it might just help Some of you to work out what you should Be doing with what you’ve got in your Cellars or under the stairs or with with Maybe even with a wine Society or Something oh can we go back to the Studio so just to go over that again and You can see can all be but Bironas most Famous vineyard you can see that blue Tinted calcareous clay marl there that’s The kind of color and it’s quite funny When you’re there when you’re in the Region you look around and you just see These white patches all over the place It’s quite beautiful scenery actually Because of the tear of Yonkers as they Call it and I’d like a put there but I’ve just put it there you can see I’m Just repeating myself as doing for the Regulations for we’ve got at least two Years ago and at least one year in the Bottle price released reserve of five at Least three and they are definitely are Needed Okay it’s good job they do that and in Fact a lot of top producers hold onto Them for a lot longer than that before They release them so you’ll often find That the top producers weren’t even Released until they’re you know ten Years old because they don’t want you to Drink them until they are at least Approachable reach deeply concentrated I Mean I guess

That tasting notes from the way we had Last year and you can see the common Aroma was one of the interesting thing Is if you ever get them but on the ended Blind tasting if you’re ever doing an Exam I don’t I’m please don’t I’m not Suggesting this is gonna happen promise But if you ever do get a blind tasting And you get a wine an exam and it’s pale Because now the other is never opaque it You can always see through it always and With age takes on similar colors to Pinot Noir so as you as they start age They take on very similar colors so Looking at it you would look in you go Cane Straightaway Pinot Noir it’s nebula Because they just have this particular Color and density straightaway the Difference is the nose the nose on a Nebula if it is especially if you’ve got Some you’ve got some of those aged tones In the color you will very likely not Pick up much fruit on the nose you know You may get some dried fruit but most Likely you will get things like and I Know people talk about Meryl Loren they Say tar and roses but you really do get Our roses and truffle and mushrooms and Licorice mints and things that you Wouldn’t expect to get now that to me is Always a giveaway and a blind tasting You think what else could this be other Than nebula and I know that I’m now

Going to get a little several little Boxes are going to say it could be Listened to kind of that which is Absolutely fine but we’re seeing more And more fruit now than we used to Because of the ripened rate that we use Them with than we used to have so things Have changed a little bit but it is one Of the things in a blind tasting that Just remember that if it’s not if it’s Tannic it’s not Pinot Noir it’s creative A nebula and if it has those aromas the Rose and the leather and the licorice And the tobacco and truffles and it’s Very likely to be nebula and yeah Ossobuco corolla i thought i had to put That photograph there because i made it Once and i find it very very difficult To pour A bottle of Barolo into my stew with my Veal shin I have to say so but it is Very delicious and so if you’ve ever Done it and it is really quite delicious It’s just very hard thing to do I Wouldn’t do it with my crew but I love It Ok so can we move on please Junior yeah So we’ve got that woman again Just like that little bat but you I’ve Got there the communes and the finest Vineyards now in in those communes and Once again like the map we had from can Get a map or barrel as there or not so If you want to really get to know those

Vineyards well then you can actually Pick those up from that website and Print them off and you can obviously Zoom in and you can really study them if It’s something that you really want to Do it’s really tough it was a lot easier Before they have these crew maps I Continue it’s now look at that and I Just go oh God You know it’s taking me 20 years to Learn most the crew of Burgundy but Doing it all over again with Murano it’s Just like ok can we move on please I Just want to finish off with this Argument really traditional versus Modernism and this is quite interesting Because this has changed so much when I First did this presentation which was I Think probably about eight nine years Ago this was still very much a real Thing and and yet it is it’s no longer Such a big thing because when I was Talking about from the beginning with Those grape varieties with with Nebbiolo Sorry and having to leave it to actually To really show itself Leave it for years and years and years And years and yet in the past that was Quite difficult to do because the great Didn’t always ripen properly so by the Time it had actually integrated properly There was very little flavor left that Doesn’t not really it’s not really the Case any longer so just to give you

Something to give you some history as Things starts to change and new wine Makers came in and and My tastes changed I think this was one Of the there is is one of the premium Factors is that consumers no longer Wants to buy wine and put it away French Ears we all want to go into a winery Entering into a shop we want to order Some wine and we want to be able to Drink it and very few people now have Cellars or places to store wine so most People don’t want you to buy something And have to leave for 20 years we also Changed our flavors change our taste in That we started to prefer fruit to Characteristics which came through after Age so if you ask most younger people They like fruit they all like fruit and So the Barolo and Barbaresco producers Had to accept to have fruit in their Mind in their wines they had to be drunk Earlier so before they took on the Tyrant roses they had to they have to be Drunk earlier so how can you actually Get these wines to be drunk earlier one Of those is to put them into a French Body so the berry obviously softens the Wine earlier the other very obvious one Is the short maceration here and I’ve Put it on there and cooler fermentation The short laceration obviously means That you have got those thick tannic Skins in contact with the juice for a

Lot shorter period so there’s less time For the wines take on those tannins but It also means it’s less time for them to Take for the wine to take on the flavor But the argument I remember having with Elias paddy this wine bottom was yes but Actually I don’t need those flavors Because people aren’t going to be Drinking my wine in 14 years they’re Going to be drinking them in 10 so it Was a bit of you know was that okay no I Can understand that so he wanted the Flavour there and then straight away and This was the modernist reaction a lot of Young winemakers were doing it and it Was very very successful however quite Quickly we started to notice that what It did do is because just because Tannins are right doesn’t mean to say That it doesn’t allow the wine to age Right tannins the wine will still age For 20 to 30 years and in In 20 or 30 years time these modernist Winemakers discovered that their wines Were sublime so it was a case of okay I liked my idea but in fact one of the Things that those berry does is it Covers up the flavors it covers up that Tar and roses and so do we really want It there and what has actually happened Over the last decade the last 15 years Is people have stopped doing it will you Find that maybe even the modernist Producers have become a little bit

Traditional so there may be using 10 or 20% of their of their wine putting it Into Barry and the rest they’re putting It back in the old oak or chestnut water Because they don’t they appreciate that Actually even with the right great that That’s French oak does cover up the Aroma and the flavor of the nebula you Also have the long maceration Of the traditionalist so these could be 20 30 40 days of maceration they would Take on a lot of tannin and during that Time there’s obviously a lot of Extraction and if the grate was very Very right you don’t bitterness and at The end of a long period of aging that’s What you get left Unfortunately so even the Traditionalists have actually moved Slightly the other way and they’ve Actually started to shorten their Maceration times so they both kind of Come both ways and the traditionalist There’s a lot more green harvesting a Lot more de leafing now so that their Grapes are ripe or when they’re picked So they don’t need to have such long Maceration times to release the right Amount of tannin so they’ve come they’ve Both kind of come round and met in the Middle and in fact I think this is one Of the most exciting times right now for For Barolo and Barbaresco because we Have this modern winemakers who have

Really worked it out and the wines are Just with that bit of global warming Which we obviously hate but can be quite Helpful and work in the vineyard and Changes in the winery I think it’s just Bang on I think they’re just stunning Julie could you move on please okay so There’s there’s a vintage chart for you I like Judy’s that this is going on to YouTube and You can screenshot as if you wanted oh Yeah got it I don’t know but they’re like is it Vintage it is quite important here Because of the you know if you get rain Early in the autumn it can stop the Ripening of those nebula vines you can See there I’ve cut out 2002 and 2003 but Just to fill you in 2002 was a disaster It rains so much it pretty much it Actually washed away in some vineyards Properly washed away something else it Was it was a disaster 2003 was very hot And although they are drinking they Drink up now if some of the top wines Maybe still last but they they Definitely have a slightly cooked kind Of character them and I tasted one a Couple years ago definitely I think in General the trees should be drinking out Now but other than that they’ve had Because we’ve had some very good weather Implemented they are seriously lovely Vintages mm the last three 15 16 17 18

And 19 we’re not me talking about yet Because it’s too early to say how They’re going to show but 15 16 and 17 Hang on 16 I’ve never I’ve never been to A nebula tasting or Kieran taser tasting And and not had somebody say yes that 16 No be said but everybody just said Perfect it’s perfect Perfect there was no yes but you know if You came from that part there they Weren’t quite as good or if you went and That pot there they’re just a little bit Over extract to me cooked Nothing it was just everybody just had Fabulous things to say so if I was going To make any investment or if I was going To and that applies to those wines from Outside but all and bad – no longer ever Ever Alba getting out of give any of Those 15 16 and 17 We’ll just be seriously good but 16 Especially they’re really good okay I Think I’ve talked myself stupid now so Hmm Oh Julia that’s an arrow at the end My name change sorry no I am okay Paula Jeez everyone and don’t don’t make my Mistake you can see me name on her on The screen there Sorry about that anyway Well first off thanks for that what an Epic tour through Piemonte a and so Interesting to find out about the Museums that are happening different Styles and I’m sure there’s a lot for

People to get their teeth into there and I imagine we’re gonna have some Questions so I think if if anyone who Will say ask questions you can just try And either type it in or use the raised Hand function on Zoom that way I’ll just Be able to manage it a bit better Otherwise we’re gonna everyone talking At once and it might be a bit bit much So if anyone has anything that they want To ask now is the time that I’ll stop The recording here and we can just carry On having a chat